The 23rd Truffle Market and the Truffle Lunch at Jacques Chibois’ La Bastide Saint Antoine in Grasse have honored the Black Diamond of Provence.
The 23rd Truffle Market at La Bastide Saint Antoine in Grasse, Relais & Châteaux Hotels of the famous starred chef Jacques Chibois was held on January 5, 2019. The Black Truffle, rabasse or Tuber Melanosporum, this mushroom from the Provençal terroir with a beautiful black dress and captivating scents, so popular with gourmets, is a mushroom steeped in mysteries that grows underground and is harvested in winter.
Truffle, a winter tourism theme
Its culture at the foot of noble trees like oak or hazel is favoring secret exchanges with the prodigality of Mother Nature. Through the landscapes that its culture shapes and the varied and succulent gastronomy it inspires, the truffle offers a magnificent theme of winter tourism. If natural truffles are threatened by drought in summer, the terroir of Provence offers ideal areas for the cultivation of truffles. This year, the rains that fell on the Mediterranean rim and in particular in Provence, were favorable to the sexuality and the development of the Black Diamond and contributed to a good harvest.
A coveted Black Diamond
The Annual Truffle Market opens up in a gourmand and friendly way the season of events dedicated to the Truffle Melanosporum in Grasse. All the fins gourmets and, among them, some chefs from renowned gastronomic establishments, came from all over the region to bathe in the intimate, silent and authentic atmosphere that reigned in the alleys of the market at La Bastide. This first day spent meeting the rabassiers, observing, smelling and negotiating the truffles, all checked before they were put on sale by the Syndicat des Trufficulteurs, was full of fragrant tasty emotions. Sorted, brushed and calibrated, the truffles, firm in consistency, rounded in shape, well-chiselled, were the subject of rapid transactions. The highlight of the day was the exhibition of the huge truffle of 660 grams discovered by a rabassiers from the department.
A feast for pupils and taste buds
The stands installed in the gardens of La Bastide Saint Antoine have offered the many becs fins some fresh truffles from the Alpes-Maritimes but also the Haut Var as those exhibited on the stand of the Maison De Santis from the famous Domaine de Majastre or Adrien Maeght, truffle farmer in the Haut Pays de Grasse. Many regional and artisanal products around the Black Diamond have inflated the bags and made the palates salivate of the gourmands lovers of this precious black mushroom and its by-products. Canned truffles, truffled foie gras, olive oils flavored with truffles and other delicacies such as honey, jams, canned snails, spices, country olives, delicatessen and various truffle dishes, including duck ravioli, were highlighted on the stalls of the exhibitors.
Nectars and sweet delights scented with truffles
Provencal wines such as the delicious wines from the Collines de Bellet (Domaine La Source), Coteaux Varois wines (Château La Calisse, Domaine Gavoty, Domaine Clos de l’Ours), Pierre Trichet Champagnes, Alsace nectars (Pinot du Vigneron Valentin Zusselin, Riesling, Clos Liebenberg from Château Zusslin) were also represented. As for the gastronomes, they were able to stave off a little hunger by tasting the sweet and scented delicacies concocted by Jacques Chibois’ brigade such as the Tarte Tatin of truffled apples, the Saint-Honoré hazelnut cream with truffle, The Big chocolate truffle almond, the rum Ali-Baba truffle, Rice with Truffle Milk, Milk Jam with truffle or the Mendiant with truffle pralines.
Inauguration and Gastronomic Truffle Lunch
Initiated by Michel Santinelli, President of the Regional Federation of Trufficulteurs Provence Alpes Côte d’Azur, and Jacques Chibois, chef and owner of the Relais & Châteaux La Bastide Saint Antoine in Grasse, the Truffle Market was visited and inaugurated by Jérôme Viaud, Mayor of Grasse, in the presence of many personalities and elected officials from the region. The inauguration then gave way to a delicious lunch signed by the chefs of La Bastide Saint Antoine: Jacques Chibois and Laurent Barberot and pastry chef Thomas Trichet for dessert. This Truffle-themed menu has been a celebration of this mushroom with its captivating and carnal scents, whose unique finesse and flavor has sublimated the refined and high-class dishes full of tastes by these exceptional chefs.
Tribute to the artist Edouardo Arroyo
At the inauguration, Michel Santinelli introduced Jean-Philippe Greco, the new President of Trufficulture and also announced with joy that at Le Rouret, the second plot of the test field planted with truffle oaks had begun to produce. He greeted Adrien Maeght, Chairman of the Maeght Foundation and passionate truffle farmer in Grasse, who proposes at each edition a renowned artist to illustrate the celebration of the truffle. This year, Eduardo Arroyo, Spanish painter sculptor, writer and theater designer realised the poster of this 23rd edition. Eduardo Arroyo has signed here one of his last works. This famous figure of French-Spanish arts that used to mix realism and sarcasm, died on October 14th. The kilo of truffles owed to him in exchange for his work was given to his widow at the end of the ceremony.
Creation of a quality label
Michel Santinelli was delighted with the 350 hectares planted in the Alpes-Maritimes with the help of the department and welcomed Philippe De Santis, President of the Var truffle farmers. He recalled the proposals for actions to support truffle growers over five years on the model of Spain which is now at the forefront of truffle farming. The 350 hectares planted in the region and agronomic research is not enough to compete with our Iberian friends. At the national level, markets are multiplying and a label has been created to guarantee the quality of the truffles presented, checked under the microscope, before they are sold.
Jacques Chibois’ gourmande recipes
How not to melt with gourmandise when Maître Jacques explains to us, with his sparkling eyes and smile full of kindness and generosity, the recipe of the Sauce Périgord which accompanies so deliciously The Quail Roasted in Tournedos on its Mashed Beans Coco with the Truffle. Périgord sauce is made with a strong duck juice. After having reduced the cooking juices of poultry and added cognac and port, the juice is reduced to almost “à sec” (dry) to give it a mirror effect. This juice is then poured into the casserole. After having whipped the sauce with butter, we add at the last moment the superb truffles.
The sumptuous and tasty Velouté of Porcini with Potimarrons, Shrimps and Lobster, a velvety truffle-flavored emulsion for the menu, represents for him the gustatory sense of his native Limousin and a tasty nod to his Perigordian roots. A dish inspired by his mother who loved to use the products from her terroir like chestnuts or cepes in its culinary preparations. His creative genius is also found in The Wonderful Loubine Cooked with Vegetable in Papillote with Truffle on its Risotto of Spelled Truffle, Caviarde Sauce with the combination of truffle and caviar. This subtle combination of the flavors from the soil, the truffles tied to the delicate flesh of the sea’s undine, are a real delight for our gourmet taste buds and gives all these letters of nobility to this dish of king. Thank you Mr. Chibois!
A cuisine of great elegance
In the Capital of Perfumes, Jacques Chibois invited the Provence to La Bastide Saint Antoine, five stars Relais & Châteaux, a residence of the eighteenth century, in the heart of a five-hectare olive grove. His spirit bubbling of ideas, the starred chef offers a cuisine of great elegance, very creative, while respecting the values of the terroir. Born in Limoges, his exemplary career led him to Jean Delaveyne, Roger Vergé, Louis Outhier and Michel Gerard from Club Regine’s in Paris, New York, London to the Royal Gray at Hotel Gray d’Albion, Cannes’ first restaurant to win two stars. His immense talent has earned him many awards and distinctions. In 1996, he opened his own establishment La Bastide Saint Antoine in Grasse, where from its superb terrace one can see the sea.
A chef with a star-studded career
Chef Laurent Barberot, originating from Franche Conté, graduated at the age of 19 from a cuisine bachelor’s degree at Luxeuil Les Bains. He continued his training with Michelin-starred chefs including Thierry Tercelin, at Villa Bellerose in southern France, Bernard Loiseau, Relais Bernard Loiseau***** in Saulieu, Marc Haeberlin at Auberge de III*** in IIIhaeusern in Alsace. At Alain Ducasse‘s Plazza Athénée in Paris, he obtained a place of deputy chef. At the Clos des Sens in Annecy, he won his first place as executive chef. He will stay there for two years. He then goes back to Alain Ducasse to take care of videos on his website called L’Atelier du Goût. At the end of this new experience, he decided to take a place of chef. He entered Jacques Chibois’ kitchens in 2016. Laurent Barberot excels in the art of cooking sauces: they are simply delicious, accompanying meat or fish.
A new pastry chef at Jacques Chibois’
The pastry chef Thomas Trichet began his career at 15 years old. After a stay at a pastry school in Paris that he will leave after a year, he did his apprenticeship with the chefs Michel Michalak, Jean-Marie Haiblot and Jérôme de Oliveira at the Plazza Athénée in Paris. He then went to Switzerland, where he practised his art at the Grand Ambassadeur in Crans Montana and at the Majestic in Montreux. Back in France, he choosed the sumptuous Paul Ricard islands (Les Embiez and Bendor) in the Var and integrates the kitchens of Chefs Christophe Pachecco, Julien Richard et Nicolas Dagouze. Since December, he is Jacques Chibois’ pastry chef at La Bastide Saint Antoine. His signature dish: the Green Apple Delight with Buckwheat Honey, White Chocolate Shell and Cider Mousse in Honeycomb.
Velouté of Porcini with Potimarrons Shrimp and Lobster, Truffled Emulsion
The Wonderful Loubine Cooked in Papillote with Vegetable and Truffle on its Truffled Spell Risotto, Caviar Sauce
The Roasted Quail in Tournedos on its Coco Bean Puree with Truffle, Sauce Perigueux
The Mendiant Provençal with Truffled Pralines, Squash and Honey Sorbet, Citrus Sauce, Fruits from the Islands
Mignardises: Hand-made Truffles, Macaroons and Filled Chocolates
The 23rd Truffle Market continues on January 14 at Le Rouret: information +33 (0) 4 93 77 20 02
La Bastide Saint Antoine – Jacques Chibois
48, avenue Henri Dunant
Tel.: +33 (0)4 93 70 94 94
Terroir of Truffle and Gastronomy at Jacques Chibois in pictures
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